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LA VALL DE GALLINERA

 

The Vall de Gallinera’s landscape depends on the season which in turn determines the palate of colours and silhouette of the horizons. Small white villages are dotted on both sides of the valley through which the river Gallinera flows.

Alicante is a province that never ceases to amaze with its constant changing geography. This area is one of the most beautiful in Alicante. Its inland mountains and valleys are stunning especially the Vall de Gallinera with its dramatic and lush mountain scenery.

The whole of the Vall is seeped in history. The Arabs occupied this region for almost six centuries. After their expulsion in 1609, the Vall de Gallinera was so uninhabited, that the Duke of Gandia, to whom most of this land belonged at the time, brought 150 families over from Majorca to repopulate the valley. The consequence of this was studied by the Cavanilles botanist who said: “One can still see the origin of those who came from Majorca in the accent and the dialect of the present inhabitants. They are very hardworking, and take advantage of this heritage to good effect, living contentedly in these delightful surroundings”.

The architecture in the villages are clearly Moorish. Narrow, twisted streets curl up the uneven sides of the mountains. Most towns offer refreshing pure mountain springs that pour out of the rocks and there is always the essential village church and plaza. The area’s agricultural industries are cherries, almonds and olives.

Benirrama is the first town to appear on the way up the Vall. The village sits on the crown of a hill, to the left, just off the main road. Benirrama, as the entry point to the valley built a castle in the 11th and 12th centuries which can still be seen. On the road up to the fortress is the village mountain spring, the Mata de Benirrama. Heading towards Benialí is another natural source of water, the Font de la Alcúdia. In the town is the Cristo de la Providencia church and next to the school is the old almazara where olives were crushed and milled to make the region’s prestigious olive oil. 

The next town is Benissivà in the parish of San Miguel Arcágel with its bars and terraces, church, square and a its property registry. Then Benitaia, with only three streets to its name. Here is the Convento de los Padres Franciscanos which was founded after the expulsion of the Moors and destroyed by a violent earthquake. Nearby is a ruined mansion house where an open air chapel is still visible.

On the road to La Carroja (pronounced Carrocha in Valenciano), the view from the mirador de la Vall is breathtaking. The village’s washing trough is fed by spring water pouring from the mountain face. On the left is the serra Foradada, which is a rocky peak that has formed a natural stone arch over time. It is not the highest point (700m) but it is the landmark by which the mountain can be identified.

In Alpatró is the beautiful, airy belltower of the parish church la Asunción de Nuestra Señora and the font d’Alpatró in the square. Here, as in many villages in this area there is a Museo Etnológico. Near this village stands another, although it has stood silent in recent times since it was abandoned by the last of its inhabitants. the village is called Llombai.

The last town in the Vall is Benissili. Benissili has a font and a castle. This fortress is surprising in its size and the area it covers and also for the impregnable spot it guards. It was the residence of the famous Arab military leader, Al-Azraq and was the scene of several uprisings, the last of which involved his surrender to King Jaume I. It was built in the 11th and 12th centuries to protect the valley from invaders.

All these towns constitute a single municipality though the villages have their own town halls and property registry. The total of the Vall’s inhabitants reaches no more than about 600.

The word: “Gallinera”: means the chickenhut or a place where chickens were kept. It is also the name of a piece of Philippino furniture, a wooden setee, under which chickens were kept safely at a time when chickens had great value and were used for trading and bartering. The wooden setee was also used to store visitors' gifts.


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